Julia Roberts set the internet on fire this week when her first fall fashion magazine cover was unveiled. The star of “Pretty Woman” and “Notting Hill” was photographed wearing a blazer by Phoebe Philo, embodying the glossy movie star allure we’ve come to expect of the season.
But it wasn’t one of the usual suspects like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar or W that landed Roberts. It was former Conde Nast editor Edward Enninful, the celebrated magazine creative who steered British Vogue for six years, who nabbed her for the first cover of his new fashion venture EE72.
Enninful was once an editor at American Vogue and appeared on the sidelines of R.J. Cutler’s acclaimed documentary “The September Issue,” about the demanding world of Anna Wintour and the production of the famous annual issue. He came into his own in the late 2010s, where under his watch British Vogue rose to prominence (even as the fashion press speculated his prowess in courting top talent – like Adele and Billie Eilish – ruffled Wintour’s domestic edition).
Throughout his career, industry insiders pegged him as a successor to Wintour. He departed in 2023, on the heels of a lost “power struggle” with the famous editor and Conde Nast chief content officer, reports said. Wintour, 75, only recently stepped away from daily editorial operations at American Vogue (naming Chloe Malle, longtime employee and daughter of actor Candice Bergen, as editorial director).
Enninful, who wouldn’t comment on the last time he spoke to his old boss, returns to the scene with a publication that hopes to rival his former publishing home. The print product, 72 Magazine, will manifest as a quarterly publication. A daily media platform, EE72, will live online. Simone Oliver will run editorial content, and Enninful’s talent agent sister Akua is on board as co-founder.
Enninful spoke to Variety about all things fashion, culture and the enduring power of print.
Why this venture, at this point in your career?
I’ve worked for the great editions of Vogue – Italian, British, German, you name it. I’ve worked for i-D magazine. But my whole career really was leading up to this. I wanted to create something away from the masthead, something that based on the principles I believe in — empathy being one of them, and being able to be free and do what I want to do.
What does empathy mean to you, in terms of this new product?
Well, representation is important. I believe in setting up a company where all voices are welcome. That’s what’s been most pivotal in my career and it’s important now more than ever.
What do you think André Leon Talley — who had a famous falling out with Vogue — would say about this moment?
André was always my champion. When I went to British Vogue, the letters he sent me – that I shattered the glass ceiling. He was so proud of me. I think he would be very excited. If he were here, I’d be tracking him down to contribute and write for us.
Your first issue will be ad free. What’s the thinking there?
The first issue is dedicated to creativity. It will be uninterrupted [by ads], a journey where we look close at why our subjects got into their chosen industry. Pairing incredible images with incredible minds. We’re positioned at the intersection of beauty, fashion and culture. Culture is so important to me.
How did you land Julia Roberts for the first cover?
Like most people, I grew up just loving Julia Roberts through her movies. She’s been there in most of our lives. I always remember when I was at British Vogue, I went to Julia Roberts for a cover so many times, but she’s so low key. She doesn’t do much. For some reason, when we called her for our launch she agreed to do it. We shot a beautiful cover and got on as friends. She’s a modern woman – unfiltered, timeless and empowering to other women. When I was leaving [British Vogue], I told her if I ever did anything else, I’d want her as my first cover. She thought I was joking.
How important are figures from Hollywood in the fashion editorial world these days, as muses or subjects?
Culture has always been the most interesting thing to me. Yes, I have a fashion background, but what propels me is film, music, architecture, food, you name it. Every magazine I do will have that element of Hollywood. I couldn’t do this without my great friends. You know, 40 of them gathered for my last cover [at British Vogue]. For this first issue we have Oprah, we have Gwyneth Paltrow, Luca Guadagnino. I’m very excited by that.
I believe you are the only person who has had an on the record interview with Beyonce in the past 15 years. Can we expect to see her in EE72 soon?
My relationship with Beyonce is so special. I’m such a fan as well, I have so much respect for her. Watch this space.
A friend of mine reminded me there is an alternate universe where Hillary Clinton became president in 2016, appointed Anna Wintour as American ambassador to the U.K. and you took over America Vogue. Did that ever seem in the cards to you?
My time there was so brilliant. I left when I wanted to leave, I felt like I’d said what I needed to say. I brought representation into fashion. When I started, people were saying Black and Brown models can’t sell magazines. I was very, very happy with my work there, and now I’m so excited to focus on this next chapter. I can really spotlight the most incredible creatives around the world. But yes, Vogue did give me an incredible platform.
Vogue just announced a changing of the guard with Chloe Malle, what did you make of that?
I can’t really speak for what goes on at Conde Nast, I left almost two years ago, but I’m excited about what I’m doing now and the stories that we can tell.
Talk about the structure of EE72, which will be a quarterly print publication and daily online.
The company consists of 3 pillars. There’s a platform which is the living organism, the heart of the company. It will be immersive, editorially led, and bring together all content, commerce, community. We also needed something I guess I’m known for, which is the print arm. Everyone said, “Print is dead!” But I wanted a quarterly magazine that is a tribute to storytelling and to pay attention to seasonal themes. People were scared when the Kindle came out, but it had the opposite effect [on the book market]. I want to create a space where we spotlight the brightest stars shaping culture. The last pillar is our creative consulting arm. We’ll deal with external clients, and it will be the commercialized expression of EE72. In between all these, we’re going to be curating “cultural drops” – working with brands on video and commerce. It will also help our great feature ideas become short films or podcasts.
A lot of emerging media seems to be prioritizing an ability to be nimble. You never considered a monthly publication?
People kept advising me to buy a title that exists but is dead right now and reinvent it. But I said no, I want to create something from scratch, something new and exciting that allows us to pivot when we need to. Something not bogged down by history. Something free.
